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LOHAS® 100 W LED чип Студена бяла крушка Чип с високомощна енергоспестяваща лампа

Brand:L LOHAS LED

3.3/5

lv
60.26

Светлинен(лв):8000-9000lm. Студено бяло. Цветова температура: 6000-6500K. Размер (L*D): 50mm*55mm Ъгъл на гледане: 140 градуса. Задвижващо напрежение:30-34V;Мощност на чипа:100w.

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EAN: 6002322087404

Категории Наръчни средства и домашно обзавеждане, Светлинни крушки, LED крушки,

Светлинен(лв):8000-9000lm. Студено бяло. Цветова температура: 6000-6500K. Размер (L*D): 50mm*55mm Ъгъл на гледане: 140 градуса. Задвижващо напрежение:30-34V;Мощност на чипа:100w.
Average Battery Life ‎30000 Hours
Batteries Included? ‎No
Batteries Required? ‎No
Brand L LOHAS LED
Brand ‎L LOHAS LED
Color ‎Cool White
Color Temperature ‎6000 Kelvin
Connectivity Technology ‎Normal bulb
Controller Type ‎Push Button
Country of Origin ‎China
Customer Reviews 4.2 4.2 out of 5 stars 400 ratings 4.2 out of 5 stars
Incandescent Equivalent Wattage 100 Watts
Incandescent Equivalent Wattage ‎100 Watts
Included Components ‎Light
Indoor/Outdoor Usage ‎Indoor
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer ‎No
Item model number ‎LH-XP-100W-6000k
Item Package Quantity ‎1
Item Weight ‎0.01 ounces
Light Color ‎Cool White
Light Type LED
Light Type ‎LED
Luminous Flux ‎8000.00
Manufacturer ‎L LOHAS LED
Material ‎Aluminum
Number of Items ‎1
Part Number ‎LH-XP-100W-6000k
Power Source ‎AC
Product Dimensions ‎1.97 x 1.97 x 0.08 inches
Shape ‎Square
Size ‎1 Count
Special Feature Easy to Install, Quiet, Powerchip, Durable, High Performance
Special Feature ‎Easy to Install, Quiet, Powerchip, Durable, High Performance
Special Features ‎Easy to Install, Quiet, Powerchip, Durable, High Performance
Type of Bulb ‎Led
Unit Count ‎1.0 Count
Usage ‎Fishing
Voltage ‎30 Volts
Wattage 100.00
Wattage ‎100.00

3.3

9 Review
5 Star
67
4 Star
14
3 Star
7
2 Star
2
1 Star
10

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Scritto da: seanauff
Great chip - needs more hardware to realize full potential
This is an awesome little chip. It is extremely bright - everyone who has seen it has been blown away with the amount of light. It floods my backyard much better than halogen floodlights. It outshines the highbeams on my car. It makes a 250 W halogen work light look like it's not even on. It's also very inexpensive for what you get. That said, there is more hardware required to run this light properly. You need a power supply that can deliver 100+ Watts. I'm currently using a computer power supply with 300 W available on the 12 V rail. You need a way to step up the power supply voltage to the LED operating voltage. I'm using a boost converter rated for 150 W made by DROK, also from Amazon. The output voltage can be controlled very easily by adjusting a trim pot. I have pulled up to 142 W (at 37 V) from this device. At that power level, the heatsinks do get hot (60 °C vs 28 °C ambient) but it does recommend the use of a fan at power levels above 100 W. You need a way to cool the LED. The LED does not come with any heatsink. At high power levels it will quickly fry itself. Even though LEDs are efficient compared to other light sources, most of the input energy is wasted at heat. I have mine attached with thermal grease to an old AMD processor stock heatsink/fan that is designed for a 125 W processor. With the fan running and pushing 120 W through this chip, the temperature of the chip remains below 40 °C. Optionally, you need a lens to focus the light. I got one right here on Amazon that takes the normally 140° cone of light of the bare chip and brings it down to 60°, increasing the luminous intensity by a factor of 5. Both focused and unfocused, the light is very uniform, and works very well as a flood light. Also optionally, you need a driver to control the output. If you run the LED straight from the boost converter it will be at full brightness all of the time. If that is all you require, then no driver is necessary. I built an Ardunio powered circuit that offers more control. It uses a low side N-channel MOSFET to switch the LED. If I want to dim the LED, the Arduino switches the FET at 490 Hz and varies the duty cycle to change the brightness. 0-100% brightness is available. Another mode keeps the duty cycle constant at 50%, but varies the frequency from 1 to 100 Hz, creating a powerful strobe light. In either mode (dimming or strobe) the duty cycle or frequency is controlled by a potentiometer. I am planning on adding a momentary switch that immediately puts the LED at full brightness, as well a temperature sensor that turns on the heatsink fan when it gets hot. If you want this to be a standalone unit and not a jumble of wires, you will need an enclosure to mount everything and keep it cool. I'm planning on making mine able to run from AC from the wall, or a battery pack. This is not a plug and play device. It needs more hardware and assembly to get it running optimally. Once it is running though, it is very impressive.
Scritto da: Andrew J. Delong
Good for the money, but some minor issues with design
Overall, the light is good for the money. I have bought three of these at various points in time for some DIY projects. On the whole, the cost more than fits the product. That said... I have found some minor issues with the design. Mainly, the negative and positive terminals are not clearly laid out. It's sort of a matter of guesswork and using some equipment to figure out which terminal is positive (+) or negative (-). Sort of a risky move, considering LED's are polarized devices and can be damaged if hooked up incorrectly. There are (+) and (-) markings on two parallel corners of the plastic bezel, but since there is no documentation to show how those orient with the actual terminals, the markings are entirely useless. Something that could be easily overcome with a simple design change. But again, it's a cheap light, so you get what you pay for. Lastly, there are a few pixels that don't light up right away (at the 24V starting point). Once you get to 25 Volts, things tend to completely come on. Again, a cheaper product (money-wise) so within the range of acceptable behavior. On the whole, a decent product that puts out decent light. Not professional video or photo quality with it's 70-80ish CRI, but good enough for general uses. To the hobbyist or amateur, I would recommend this as a good starter. To the experienced individual looking for more professional uses, there are higher quality lights (at higher prices) out there. It all depends on what you want to do for 10(ish) dollars.
Scritto da: Kelly Chester
Don't be fooled by the great reviews. These LEDs are pretty good for the ...
Don't be fooled by the great reviews. These LEDs are pretty good for the price. But they are not as good as most LEDs I have used. Yes, it's bright - it's a 100W LED! It's supposed to be UNBELIEVABLY INSANELY BRIGHT. My first problem is that it's not very good color quality. The CRI on these must be down in the 70-80% range (I don't have a way to actually measure CRI.). They have that old-school LED light quality that is super bright, but doesn't seem to actually illuminate things as much as it should. Colors are very muted under this LED, and it produces a very greyed-out, low contrast illumination. I also take issue with the fact that there is NO DATA SHEET available anywhere I could find. I checked the web site of the manufacturer, and they don't have one either (http://www.lohas-led.com/). THE WORST THING is the diagram they provide which indicates the + (positive) and - (negative) contacts IS WRONG (as of Dec 9, 2015). Thankfully I didn't burn up my brand new 100W LED by hitting it with full voltage in the wrong direction. I double- and quadruple-checked it. They provide bad info on that point. Another problem with not having a data sheet is that there is no information on how many lumens per watt these LEDs produce at their nominal voltage and current. So there is no way to objectively verify whether they are performing any better than a regular halogen bulb, or a competing LED. A 100W halogen is going to be insanely bright too. Is this LED actually any brighter? Who knows. It probably is, because LEDs are typically a lot brighter than halogen. But given the poor light quality, it could be a wash at worst. I took a knife to the edge of the backplate to see if it really is solid copper. And I honestly can not confirm that it is. The material is much harder than copper and damaged my knife blade. Copper is a soft metal and can be carved pretty easily with any good knife, even if the copper has been hardened. It actually looks like it may be steel. It is also not the right color after scratching off the surface coating. If it is copper, it's an alloy, not pure copper, which won't have the heat dissipating properties of pure copper. If the LED can't dissipate its heat, it will fail prematurely. Overall, this is a reasonably priced, crappy, off-brand LED. I would not expect it to perform well, nor last very long. It will work OK for general illumination in situations where you don't really care about the quality of the light or the energy efficiency. But unless you are under-driving it by a significant margin, it most likely won't last the expected 50,000 hours either.
Scritto da: Joshua C Green
Pretty bright and good for the price.
Been running it at 33v 1amp almost everyday for a couple months. No problems. It buzzes for me any further then that like it's over powered, but it's bright enough for most anything without pushing it.
Scritto da: Lee
Very bright and compact.
Very bright, need to monitor current for initial checks, running them at 28-31 vdc. Definitely need lots of heat sink. Really compact using them to illuminate electronics testing bench. Watch the price, first batch cost me $11.73 each, next ones I found for $1.73 each.
Scritto da: Josh
Tested 2x50w and a 100w, amazing for price
Super good. If you can get 3s(just to make 12v) Li-Ion or lipo battery pack, buy a boost converter and switch, slap it on a heatsink and you will have one of the cheapest and best flood lights possible.
Scritto da: Tarzan
Measured light output
At 30V and 1A (under powered in comparison to other users who run at 36V), my quantum meter reads 500 umol/m2/s at a distance of 0.5 m from the surface of the LED. This is amazing.
Scritto da: Ibrahimchehimi
Decently Matched LED chips and IT IS 100W!
All 100 of the 1W led chips are more or less matched (unlike crappy eBay LEDs). Also, don't listen to the reviews saying "this is only 10w or 20w" they aren't supplying the LED with enough voltage. You increase the voltage until the LED draws 3 amps, which should be around 36V. Also don't forget the heatsink or the LED will die in seconds at 100W.
Scritto da: Charanduk
It is very Bright!
This Led chip is very bright I put it in a flashlight build and it worked great but it needs lots of cooling! It runs on 36v 3a. It works great as a floodlight. Go to my Youtube channel to see it in action at ( Kuriosity Kid )

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